Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Ballarat

A 'by request' post, as my dear friend Mrs Choko has requested a photo of the van set up. She has strange tastes, but we shall not question her!

We have had a great couple of days in Ballarat. Yesterday was Sovereign Hill which was really good - it's the sort of place that if you didn't have kids you'd possibly not think of going, but it was so worthwhile. An exhausting day as its a huge site, and panning for gold is actually quite tiring! Didn't find any, but parted with lots of virtual gold ie money, buying souvenirs of course! By the end of the day all I could do was lie in bed muttering 'my knees, my knees' like an old woman. And no gin left in the van to comfort me!

Today was a bit quieter - went to the Eureka Centre and learnt about the famous stockade. I know more now about the gold rush period than I have since Grade 4! Actually I now appreciate it all too - I think it's all a bit lost on you when you are a kid, but now I can actually imagine what it must have been like, and how hard conditions were for the diggers etc. Not too crash hot for all the original inhabitants of course either who of course were forced out of all the areas that got a population boom thanks to gold being found.

Meanwhile it's still hard being me - Isabella and I had a swim as it's warmed up, I had a lovely G&T and Craig is now cooking dinner (BBQ most nights - such bliss to not have to cook!) and we have one more day here then off to the Grampians.

PS Update - my kind kind husband looked after Isabella today (Thursday) so that I could go to Hepburn Springs and 'take the waters'. It was lovely of course - floating about at the ultra modern Hepburn Bathhouse which is an addition to the historic baths. Sadly there aren't really any 'springs' as such in the gardens area as it seems the drought has dried them up!

Monday, November 24, 2008

Beechworth - Echuca - Bendigo

Loving Victoria! Maybe cause it's my 'return to country' since I was born in Melbourne or maybe its the amount of historical buildings and slight Englishness of the towns, combined with beautiful scenery as we drive through the countryside. Had the BEST couple of days in Beechworth - a perfect syncronicity of carbohydrates and history ie it's the home of the famous Beechworth Bakery and it's 'Ned Kelly country' as well as being a Gold Rush centre.

We did a great guided walking tour of the town in the daytime, and then at night, I did a 'ghost tour' which was at the now closed Beechworth Asylum, which housed up to about 1200 'insane' people from the mid 1800s through to the 1990s. Very atmospheric and creepy, but no I didn't see any actual ghosts, though I heard some amazing stories!

Of course, insanity often meant no more than post-natal depression, post traumatic stress disorder for returned soldiers, or even just depression, and so there were also a lot of sad stories of people committed by husbands, families or a judge after committing a crime, and then spending the next 80 years there. Apparently it was considered a revolutionary step forward when after the place had been operating for about 80 years one of the Superintendents allowed the patients to wear underwear under their canvas uniforms!

From Beechworth it was off to Echuca which is also very very lovely. We did a day cruise on the Murray and then - after a horrible day of freezing cold, gale force winds and two hailstorms - the skies cleared and we were able to go on a fantastic sunset dinner cruise. And the plus of the bad weather was that enough rain had fallen that the Murray was about 1 1/2 feet higher than its been for a year so the paddlesteamer was able to go further along the river than it had in a long time.

From Echuca it was off to Bendigo, where we did a 'talking tram' tour of the city - basically an hour long trip on a tram that runs as a tourist attraction with a commentary on the beautiful old buildings and history of Bendigo. And the weather has improved so while I'm still getting my head around the idea of wearing jeans and a jumper in late November, as long as the sun shines I can cope! Next stop Ballarat.

Monday, November 17, 2008

Bateman's Bay and 'Music at the Creek' festival

We leave sunny Canberra behind and head east, bound for the Music at the Creek acoustic music festival at Major's Creek, which is basically a tiny village (one pub, no other shops) halfway between Canberra and the coast, up high in the hills. Hills = cold = mist it seems - was like being in Scotland or Ireland! 'You call this summer?' I found myself yelling at the sky as the temperature dropped to 11c in the daytime! But it was very moody and romantic I must admit.

We had left the van parked behind the Major's Creek pub lunchtime on Thursday and headed down to Bateman's Bay, deciding to spend the night in a cabin at the caravan park rather than haul it down and then back up the mountain range which has some wicked hairpin bends and an 1 in 8 gradiant. We had a great day in Bateman's on Friday doing a section of the Eurobadalla coast (can't spell that but too lazy to check it) as far south as the pretty town of Moruya. Apparently I own a beach at Bateman's Bay - well maybe some ancestors did! Coast in this area is very lovely and unspoilt - have to say that generally speaking the NSW govt has done a much better job of protecting their coastline from overdevelopment than has the Qld govt (apologies to my employer - you are great - no REALLY).

We headed back up to Major's Creek and had Fri night through Sunday at the festival - very good - as seems to be the case at these things you happen upon some amazing acts that you've never heard of - I was very impressed with an eccentric ensemble called Mr Fibby with their hilarious Eastern European pseudo-Gothic tales of misery and despair set to violin, cello and guitar. Very entertaining! (They have a MySpace page if anyone is interested). Craig liked The Go Set - more in the tradition of a good Australian pub band. Isabella was kept entertained at the 'kids' tent' which had story telling, craft etc.

We met some great people at the festival who were camped near us at the pub - the pub had HOT SHOWERS and proper loos and was also one of the venues for the festival. A lovely experience all up.

So that's us officially done with the ACT - next stop Beechworth, Victoria!!!!

Monday, November 10, 2008

Dubbo - Parkes - Wagga Wagga - Canberra

Well it's been a really busy week again. After leaving Dubbo we headed for Cowra, where we visited the Japanese Gardens which were very lovely of course, and went to the site of the actual 'Cowra breakout' by the 1000ish Japanese P.O.W.s, which is marked just by a plaque and a replica watchtower. For those who don't remember their history from school, the breakout was an attempt by the POWs to die with honour attempting to escape, rather than suffer the disgrace of being a POW – so it was basically a suicide mission as they didn't seriously expect to just disappear into the local countryside of course. The Japanese soldier who was one of the masterminds of the breakout was shot during the breakout, so he smoked a cigarette while he lay on the ground, then cut his own throat.

On the way to Cowra we stopped at Parkes to see the famous 'dish'. Very BIG. I am a science ignoramus so that is all I can say. BIG. DISH. Worth a stop though, especially if you can appreciate the science of it all.

We then had a couple of nice days in Wagga Wagga to catch up with friends who recently moved there from Noosa. So I guess that makes it the Noosa of the Murumbidgee! Nice big country town and we caught up on the dreaded schoolwork and had a nice cycle along the Murumbidgee. Off to Canberra then!

I'm really NOT SURE about Canberra. It's either a very lovely city OR its strangely like driving around an extremely large lawn cemetary – ie. lots of grass and trees and monuments and a bit lacking in people. To be fair we arrived on a Sunday, and since then I have seen actual living human beings.

Today we went to the War Memorial, which is fantastic, though a bit overwhelming for some I think. Isabella and I hurried through and Craig is going back for the full tour. I was very pleased to be able to find my grandfather's name on the Roll of Honour. Hard not to think about how different life might had been for my dad, had he not lost his dad at the age of 3 (he died in Borneo). For a change of pace I then went SHOPPING and Craig took Isabella to the Australian Institute of Sport, which they thought was great. Tomorrow it's a cycle around Lake Burley Griffin and then Question Time at Parliament House. We get to see the K. Rudd in action hopefully (is he IN the country????).

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Coffs - Tamworth - Dubbo

We left Coffs (seems like forever ago now!) and did the terrifying drive up to Dorrigo - 15 km of what seemed like a vertical climb up the Great Dividing Range - absolutely breathtaking scenery but we needed a stiff drink after we made it to the 'top' - except all we got was more hills as we headed west towards Tamworth. We also saw yet more beautiful countryside and a fantastic waterfall - Ebor I think it was called from memory.

Tamworth - well we have mixed feelings on this town - I thought it was lovely but Craig was underwhelmed - it was only a quick stop on route to Dubbo in any case where we had the single best tourist experience that I can remember - staying at the Zoofari lodge at Dubbo Zoo (Craig queried whether it was better than my travels in Europe, but since that was nearly 20 years ago, I can't remember most of it (as my friends know, I can barely remember what happened the day before yesterday usually!)

I could go on and on about Dubbo Zoo - it was a fantastic experience staying at the zoo in their 'safari tents' which I'll post a picture of rather than try to explain. What was best was that the deal includes 3 guided tours of the zoo, where you get taken behind the scenes and visit the animals in their 'night quarters' (yes at night in the dark with a spotlight) rather than just seeing them out in the open areas. We got to hand feed giraffes, a rhino, the meerkat and a wombat and echnida - quite a mixed list, as well as visit the lions, hippos, wolves etc. And there was a great 3 course dinner and hot breaky too - and yes the opportunity to sit at the safari lodge sipping a gin and tonic. Happy happy me!